Monday, June 24, 2019
lumps and a little speed
We had the main, jib, and staysail up but now have a reefed mAin and jib. I hit 10+ knots of Boat speed but the swell is coming from an unfortunate direction.
boat bombs!
Yesterday, the winds and sea piped up. Gusts to 34 and swell 4-7 feet. It's really rolly on board and quite hot. We are excited to explore Palmyra tomorrow! I made cinnamon apple raisin walnut "boat bombs" (thank you fo the cool name Corey) for the crew and some extras for the scientists on Palmyra.
Sunday, June 23, 2019
Aircon and showers? How did I get here?
Sea Dragon is a former Challenge Race boat BUT it has AC! We turn it on in evenings to break the heat. I showered which took some balancing as we bounce along. We are allowed unlimited showers - WHAT?
Amazing stars
Exiting the companionway for 2200-0200 watch was like stepping into an Asimov text book. Today is clear with sapphire seas. A few masked boobies flying about
HAPPY SUMMER SAILSTICE FROM THE MIDDLE OF THE PACIFIC!
Happy Summer Sailstice from Sea Dragon at lat 13 under the Milky Way, Southern Cross, & shooting stars. Joseph, we are enjoying every moment.
Saturday, June 22, 2019
No pirates - yet
Jason: no sirens, Downton Abbey pirates, or Tardis sighted – but there's still time. Amelia Earhart is supposedly out here too.
Bad Watch
Everyone, at some point, gets the bad watch (0000-0400) and the good watches (sunrises and sunsets). And we have more time to sleep than when racing. Just because you are "off watch" doesn't mean you aren't up on deck -especially during the day. It's hard to sleep when the on watch is having so much fun (FOMO!).
Standing Watch
WATCHES: Because we do not "pull over at night," there are 4 of the 10 of us "standing watch" at all times. We keep sailing, day and night until we are at anchor at our two stopovers (Palmyra and Kirimati).
We all stand watch. 4 up at a time with 2 going off 2 new coming on every 2 hours. This is called a "rolling" watch. It ensures that everyone has the "best" and he "worst" (0000-0400 hours) watches. If you are on watch during lunch or dinner hours, you make or clean up after the meal. In the morning, it means you clean the entire boat. On the hour, every hour, those on watch will keep the log (noting visibility, temperature, boat speed, wind speed/direction, distance traveled, and also checking the bilges for leaks/water intrusion).
We all stand watch. 4 up at a time with 2 going off 2 new coming on every 2 hours. This is called a "rolling" watch. It ensures that everyone has the "best" and he "worst" (0000-0400 hours) watches. If you are on watch during lunch or dinner hours, you make or clean up after the meal. In the morning, it means you clean the entire boat. On the hour, every hour, those on watch will keep the log (noting visibility, temperature, boat speed, wind speed/direction, distance traveled, and also checking the bilges for leaks/water intrusion).
Day 2
Day 2: brilliant sailing. Lots of HELM time. Amazing stars. Saw Hydra Scorpio and Jupiter. Light winds during dog watch.
Day 3
Day 3: winds up sea state down. More amazing helming. Then, lost three hours of my life with bad reaction to Dramamine. It's all good. Another jammy sunset.
Thursday, June 20, 2019
Day 1: travel
Day 1: Early flIght to HNL. Met 6 crew mates & 2 skippers at Sea Dragon. Safety, rules, orientation talks. Stowed gear. Stephan (DFW) gave talk about Palmyra.
We landed at HNL and made our way to Ko Olina Marina. We were there a bit early, so we walked over to the resort for lunch. It was swarming with tourists. Not my kind of Hawaii or vacation. We were happy to return to the quiet of Sea Dragon and the marina.
We met our skipper Eric, first mate Shanley, biologist Mary, working crew Sarah and Merit, and regular crew (like we are) Elaine, Jessica, and Crescentia. We unpacked and organized out gear and chose our bunks. I have a knack for picking the worst bunk... so, I immediately chose the bottom bunk that had to be stepped on to get into the two upper bunks, with no personal fan, something that poked my back if I slept a certain way, and directly under Marrrk who had a habit of dropping items in my bunk...
We are assigned a red basket (think large milk crate) and I promptly began laying out my numbered dry bags and whatnots for easy locating in the dark. I also hung a couple of little bags in my bunk for night time things (headlamp, ipod) and daytime things (sun block, sun glasses).
It was a nice touch that Sea Dragon provided sheets and pillows so that we did not have to schlep these things during our travels.
We landed at HNL and made our way to Ko Olina Marina. We were there a bit early, so we walked over to the resort for lunch. It was swarming with tourists. Not my kind of Hawaii or vacation. We were happy to return to the quiet of Sea Dragon and the marina.
We met our skipper Eric, first mate Shanley, biologist Mary, working crew Sarah and Merit, and regular crew (like we are) Elaine, Jessica, and Crescentia. We unpacked and organized out gear and chose our bunks. I have a knack for picking the worst bunk... so, I immediately chose the bottom bunk that had to be stepped on to get into the two upper bunks, with no personal fan, something that poked my back if I slept a certain way, and directly under Marrrk who had a habit of dropping items in my bunk...
We are assigned a red basket (think large milk crate) and I promptly began laying out my numbered dry bags and whatnots for easy locating in the dark. I also hung a couple of little bags in my bunk for night time things (headlamp, ipod) and daytime things (sun block, sun glasses).
It was a nice touch that Sea Dragon provided sheets and pillows so that we did not have to schlep these things during our travels.
Kit storage
Here is where I keep my organized kit - it a bin on a shelf easy to acces but keeps your things from floating about 
My bunk. Lower, port side, mid aft. Lots of little storage bags for necessaries.
And we are off!
It’s another beautiful day in paradise. Winds at 15 knots, 3-4 foot swell.
Wednesday, June 19, 2019
Bags on bags: the Logistics of Packing for an Ocean Voyage.
Yes, the boat is 72 feet long, but the storage space is minimal. No self respecting sailor brings a wheelie bag on an ocean voyage. I have learned to live for weeks out of a carry-on duffle bag. What’s the trick? Lots and lots of planning and over thinking.
The reality is, offshore, you don’t change your clothes everyday. Usually, showers are limited, minimal (all of the saltwater you want but only a pint of fresh water to rinse), or not practical (ever tried to shower at 25 knots??). So, hope for squalls and bring a lot of baby wipes. Unscented. Once, I mistakenly bought grape scented. I smelled like a Jolly Rancher (not optimal).
Back to packing .... I like to organize my “outfits” in numbered bags, based upon the weather for each part of the trip. Because the temperature is relatively constant throughout this trip, each dry bag contains a pair of shorts, a tank top, long sleeved sun shirt, and long quick dry hiking pants. Other dry bags include other clothes and necessities. My electronics live in a fortified Tupperware box. I bring two of what I can’t live without (sunglasses!) and then jam in as many underwear as I can. There are no hair driers, flat irons, stilettos, or anything cotton. This time, I have a few gifts for our land based lodging host on Kirimati and the ingredients to make “boat bombs” (Inside out cinnamon rolls aptly named by Corey!) for the crew.
Peace Out,
Bags
The reality is, offshore, you don’t change your clothes everyday. Usually, showers are limited, minimal (all of the saltwater you want but only a pint of fresh water to rinse), or not practical (ever tried to shower at 25 knots??). So, hope for squalls and bring a lot of baby wipes. Unscented. Once, I mistakenly bought grape scented. I smelled like a Jolly Rancher (not optimal).
Back to packing .... I like to organize my “outfits” in numbered bags, based upon the weather for each part of the trip. Because the temperature is relatively constant throughout this trip, each dry bag contains a pair of shorts, a tank top, long sleeved sun shirt, and long quick dry hiking pants. Other dry bags include other clothes and necessities. My electronics live in a fortified Tupperware box. I bring two of what I can’t live without (sunglasses!) and then jam in as many underwear as I can. There are no hair driers, flat irons, stilettos, or anything cotton. This time, I have a few gifts for our land based lodging host on Kirimati and the ingredients to make “boat bombs” (Inside out cinnamon rolls aptly named by Corey!) for the crew.
Peace Out,
Bags
Tuesday, June 18, 2019
Palmyra Atoll: the place of legends
Palmyra Atoll is one part of the Northern Line Island chain and is a territory of the United States. It is located almost due south of Hawaii. The nearest continent is almost 3,355 miles to the northeast.
Many legends are told about this remote lump of coral in the literal middle of nowhere.
Allegedly in 1816, pirates stole a ship, laden with gold and other treasure (stolen from Peru) the Esperanza, but hit the reef at Palmyra. The whereabouts of the treasure and the pirates are unknown.
Previously part of the Hawaiian kingdom, and previously a privately owned island by American Henry Cooper (and the subject of a real murder mystery https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/And_the_Sea_Will_Tell ), in 1962, it was also used by the Department of Defense as an observation site during several high-altitude nuclear weapons tests above " nearby" Johnston Atoll.I n 2003, it was purchased by the Nature Conservancy ( https://www.nature.org/en-us/about-us/where-we-work/united-states/hawaii/stories-in-hawaii/palmyra-175-years-of-science/ ).
Visitation is limited and by permit only. Typically, there are 4-15 residents (scientists) at any given time. Palmyra is home to many recognized shark, reef, and avian studies.
It is 4.6 square miles.
It is one of the only atolls that was not actually subjected to nuclear testing.
Sadly, due to its location where the southern and northern currents meet, plastic and plastic bottles literally litter the beaches. It does, however, have one of the most diverse and spectacular coral reef systems in the world. I can't wait to check it out!
Many legends are told about this remote lump of coral in the literal middle of nowhere.
Allegedly in 1816, pirates stole a ship, laden with gold and other treasure (stolen from Peru) the Esperanza, but hit the reef at Palmyra. The whereabouts of the treasure and the pirates are unknown.
Previously part of the Hawaiian kingdom, and previously a privately owned island by American Henry Cooper (and the subject of a real murder mystery https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/And_the_Sea_Will_Tell ), in 1962, it was also used by the Department of Defense as an observation site during several high-altitude nuclear weapons tests above " nearby" Johnston Atoll.I n 2003, it was purchased by the Nature Conservancy ( https://www.nature.org/en-us/about-us/where-we-work/united-states/hawaii/stories-in-hawaii/palmyra-175-years-of-science/ ).
Visitation is limited and by permit only. Typically, there are 4-15 residents (scientists) at any given time. Palmyra is home to many recognized shark, reef, and avian studies.
It is 4.6 square miles.
It is one of the only atolls that was not actually subjected to nuclear testing.
Sadly, due to its location where the southern and northern currents meet, plastic and plastic bottles literally litter the beaches. It does, however, have one of the most diverse and spectacular coral reef systems in the world. I can't wait to check it out!
Home for the next 13 days: Sailing Vessel Sea Dragon
Sailing Vessel Sea Dragon will be our home for the next 13 days. She is a 72ft, steel hulled sailboat that was build for the former Global Challenge Race. She is similarly set up to the Clipper 68s (the race that succeeded the Global Challenge and the race that I crewed on in 2009-2010) and bomb-proof (much like our own South African-built Santa Cruz 50 custom, Adrenalin).
She is now owned by Pangaea Expeditions and sails the world for environmental research and adventure.
We sail all day and all night - there is no half-way Starbuck's barge or dropping anchor (the Pacific Ocean is REALLY deep). We share in helming, trimming sails, cleaning, and cooking. It's a real team effort. Unlike the "lake boat" we sailed to Hawaii in 2014, this boat actually has a head (two in fact!).
I cannot wait to meet the rest of the crew!
She is now owned by Pangaea Expeditions and sails the world for environmental research and adventure.
We sail all day and all night - there is no half-way Starbuck's barge or dropping anchor (the Pacific Ocean is REALLY deep). We share in helming, trimming sails, cleaning, and cooking. It's a real team effort. Unlike the "lake boat" we sailed to Hawaii in 2014, this boat actually has a head (two in fact!).
I cannot wait to meet the rest of the crew!
The Republic of Kiribati - where the map ends and where time begins
The island of Kirimati is in the country of Kiribati. Kiribati is made up of 33 islands, 21 of which are inhabited, scattered over 1,351,000 square miles. It's maritime zone is over 3 million square miles!
It was founded on Jul 12, 1979, gaining full independence from the United Kingdom and the current population is about 116,398.
Kiribati includes the Gilbert, Phoenix, and Line Island chains. The island of Kirimati is part of the Line Islands. Kirimati
Kirimati is also called Christmas Island. Captain Cook and his crew
Tarawa Atoll and others Gilbert islands were invaded by the Japanese in December 1941 and liberated by the Americans 2 years later in November 1943 in the Battle of Tarawa.
The president is Taneti Mamau. He started his public service career as a planner!
Local cuisine: fish (duh!), pali sami (corned beef with coconut sauce in a taro leaf), and pandanus fruit.
The traditional way of life (katei) involves a strong sense of personal pride, respect one to another, and a consistently open welcome to foreigners (irua oe bwaroko). They respect elders and parents do their best to nurture their children with their values and traditions.
The International Date Line goes around Kiribati making it the place where time begins (UTC+14 hours)!
It’s the only nation in all 4 hemispheres of the world (North, South, East and West)!
Why travel to Kiribati? Due to their low- lying topography (2-3 feet above sea level), the nation of Kiribati is expected to be a victim of climate change/sea level rise. In fact, in 1999, two small uninhabited islands disappeared. I want to see the country, meet the people, and learn the culture before it is all underwater.
(The previous Kiribati president, Anote Tong, is a climate change champion and has spent countless hours educating the world about the plight of the island nations in the Central Pacific: http://www.climate.gov.ki/tag/kiribati-president-anote-tong/ and https://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/world/asia/climate-change-kiribati.html and https://youtu.be/9KACXV-cW-4 .)
It was founded on Jul 12, 1979, gaining full independence from the United Kingdom and the current population is about 116,398.
Kiribati includes the Gilbert, Phoenix, and Line Island chains. The island of Kirimati is part of the Line Islands. Kirimati
Kirimati is also called Christmas Island. Captain Cook and his crew
Tarawa Atoll and others Gilbert islands were invaded by the Japanese in December 1941 and liberated by the Americans 2 years later in November 1943 in the Battle of Tarawa.
The president is Taneti Mamau. He started his public service career as a planner!
Local cuisine: fish (duh!), pali sami (corned beef with coconut sauce in a taro leaf), and pandanus fruit.
The traditional way of life (katei) involves a strong sense of personal pride, respect one to another, and a consistently open welcome to foreigners (irua oe bwaroko). They respect elders and parents do their best to nurture their children with their values and traditions.
The International Date Line goes around Kiribati making it the place where time begins (UTC+14 hours)!
It’s the only nation in all 4 hemispheres of the world (North, South, East and West)!
Why travel to Kiribati? Due to their low- lying topography (2-3 feet above sea level), the nation of Kiribati is expected to be a victim of climate change/sea level rise. In fact, in 1999, two small uninhabited islands disappeared. I want to see the country, meet the people, and learn the culture before it is all underwater.
(The previous Kiribati president, Anote Tong, is a climate change champion and has spent countless hours educating the world about the plight of the island nations in the Central Pacific: http://www.climate.gov.ki/tag/kiribati-president-anote-tong/ and https://www.nytimes.com/2016/07/03/world/asia/climate-change-kiribati.html and https://youtu.be/9KACXV-cW-4 .)
Kirimati = Kee Ree Mass
Kirimati has the greatest land area of any coral atoll in the world. The population of the island in 2015 was estimated to be around 6,447. It is one of the most remote islands in the Pacific Ocean.
In 1537, was “discovered” by Hernando de Grijalva of Spain and on December 24, 1777, visited by Captain Cook. Due to the date of his visit, he named the island Christmas Island. In Gilbertese/I-Kiribati, Kirimati is pronounced Kee-Ree-Mas (which reminds me of a scene from one of my favorite movies: https://youtu.be/7cdSGlIwJBg )
The capital of Kirimati is London (or Ronton). It exports fish and coconut products and has to import nearly everything, including drinking water.
The average temperature is around 80F every day!
Disappointingly, in the late 50s, nuclear tests were conducted around Kiritimati by the UK and in 1962, by the US. Now, the entire island is a Wildlife Sanctuary.
The bird Bokikokiko (Kiritimati reed warbler) is a species of warbler found only on Kiritimati.
The street lights in Kirimati have been out since 1978. However, more recently, a solar project funded by the EU Development Fund and New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade has put the light back on! (https://www.stuff.co.nz/timaru-herald/life/102166347/ending-40-years-of-darkness-on-remote-pacific-island )
There is only one flight (Fiji Air) once a week from Kirimati to the US! The airport is located in the town of Banana (https://youtu.be/26K2sgma-mM ).
Kirimati is known for its amazing catch and release bonefishing.
Monday, June 10, 2019
COMING SOON: Sailing West of Westeros - to Where the Map Ends ...
Watch this space for reports from the most remote places in the Pacific Ocean . . .
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